A waterproof protector is two products laminated together, and every complaint people have about them traces back to that construction. Once you know what the layers are, the heat, the crinkle, and the wildly different prices all make sense.
The face is a knit or terry fabric that feels like bedding. Bonded to its underside is a thin plastic film, and that film is the entire waterproof function. Product descriptions such as https://reaks.us.com/ list the fabric and the backing separately for exactly this reason.
Old-style protectors used thick vinyl sheeting: cheap, stiff, loud, and prone to cracking. Modern versions laminate a much thinner polyurethane film to fabric. The material is the difference between sleeping on a tarp and sleeping on a sheet.
Waterproof and breathable are not the same claim. A film that blocks liquid also blocks most airflow. The best it can do is pass water vapor slowly through the membrane, which helps at the margins but is nothing like air moving through cotton.
Your body pushes out moisture all night. Normally the mattress absorbs some of it. A film stops that transfer at the surface, so humidity builds between you and the bed, and humid skin reads as hot skin. That is the honest tradeoff.
Noise is the film flexing. Stiff or thick film makes sound, and a loose fit lets it move and pop every time you shift. Thin laminated film on a stretchy knit is far quieter, because the fabric damps the movement instead of transmitting it.
Wash it and run it through the dryer on low a few times to soften the laminate, and make sure the pocket depth actually matches your mattress so the surface stays taut. A protector fighting a mattress that is too tall for it will announce every movement all night.
Mattress heights vary enormously, and deep-pocket versions handle up to fifteen or eighteen inches. Measure from the bottom seam to the top surface with your topper in place, then buy for that number rather than for the size printed on the box.